The day started foggy, so foggy in fact we couldn’t even see the island which was only 8km away. It was a shame as the journey over the sea would normally involve whale watching and spotting dolphins. The trip on the ferry was quick, just half an hour and we had arrived on the largest sand island in the world. It was from this moment the day got better as the fog started to lift and the sun started shining through the trees.
Our first stop was Lake McKenzie we travelled through thick rainforest to get there on roads (sand tracks) that even 4x4 cars were struggling with. It seemed like we had travelled to the middle of nowhere when this huge lake which covered 150 hectares appeared from between the trees. We were blown away, it was the clearest water we had ever seen, it looked a beautiful blue which was the reflection of the sky onto the white sand that lined the lake. Jonny managed to dip his toes in and the water was freezing, there was a couple of dare devils that went for a swim but they soon came out shivering.
Jonny being brave at Lake McKenzie |
Lake McKenzie |
We then had morning tea while listening to a person from the indigenous tribe of Fraser Island, the tribe was known as the Butchulla People. He explained about the islands history, his tribe and he performed a traditional dance and song, it felt really special due to the environment that we were in. What we learnt about the relationship between the indigenous people and the European settlers was really disturbing. It is thought that the Butchulla People lived on the land of Fraser Island for up to 15,000 years and during those years when there was plenty of food supplies there was a population of 2,000 people. When the European settlers arrived they began using resources that the Butchulla People relied upon, food cycles changed and supplies they needed to survive suffered and disease spread as a result. Our guide told of one occasion when the Butchulla People were very hungry, they became desperate for food and starting stealing small amounts of flour so they could make bread. The European settlers soon realised what was happening so they put poison in the flour which ended up killing many of the the Butchulla People. Many similar incidences and conflicts took place. Logging of the island was introduced in 1863 which further affected the lifestyle of the Butchulla People. Logging was stopped on the island in 1991 when the area was named a World Heritage Site but by this time it was far too late for the tribes who had already moved away.
From the Butchulla tribe |
The next point on our tour started on the 75 mile beach. It was amazing, we drove from a dense rainforest on to a beautiful beach. This beach was unlike one we had ever visited before as it also acted as I highway where cars travels at 80km an hour, It was also a runway for aircraft. We whizzed along the beach admiring the view, looking out to sea trying to spot a whale. Unfortunately it was not to be are day for seeing wildlife, the only whale we saw was dead. The tour guide explained that this particular whale had died the previous week when Bull Sharks chased it and it beached itself. There was a large group of people who saw what had happened and tried to help save the whale but their efforts were in vain as the Whale was just too large to be moved.
The beach highway |
The beach highway which also worked as a runway |
75 Mile Beach |
The next spot of interest for us was The Maheno ship wreck. The ship has been beached since 1935. The Maheno was originally used on routes from Sydney to Auckland, it was then used in World War One as a hospital ship in Europe. After the war the Japanese brought the boat from the Australia to melt down as scrap. They began towing it back to Japan when a storm hit and the tow line snapped with the engines having previously been taken out there was no way of rescuing the boat. It therefore drifted and beached itself on Fraser Island where it remains today.
The Maheno |
Indian Heads was the place where we stopped for lunch but no food was eaten before a hike up the cliffs to admire the fabulous view of the bays and surrounding forests. After lunch we went to a part of the island they have named Champagne Pools which are actually just very large rock pools. The area was given its name a s someone decided the bubbling effect of the sea over the rocks looked like Champagne being poured.
View from Indian Heads |
Standing on the beach bellow Indian Heads |
Champagne Pools |
One of a few Dingo's we met |
Our route home took us past a tree called Stinay, it is a huge Syncarpia Hillii which is 215cm in diameter and is estimated to be at least 500 years old. This particular tree was also known as the Spirit Tree. It was given its nick-name as years ago when a young descendant from one the indigenous tribes went on a tour of the island and took a photo of this tree. When the photo was developed there was a huge figure the sizeof the tree standing next to it. Since this photo there have been many other similar photos taken showing spirits around the tree. This is something that did not surprise me having heard of the troubled history of the island and knowing just how old the tree was and what it could have seen there was a spiritual atmosphere.
"The Spirit Tree" |
The whole day was quite magical, we managed to see and learn
so much. I am so pleased we went despite feeling so ill in the morning, it as
it is a trip that we will never forget.