I almost chickened out of our day trip to Fraser Island as I
woke up feeling rather rough. I had a rubbish cold and didn’t think rocking
around in the back of a 4x4 all day would make me feel any better. However we
were too late to cancel and unless we wanted to pay twice and go the next day I
had to man up and try to enjoy the ride.
The day started foggy, so foggy in fact we couldn’t even see
the island which was only 8km away. It was a shame as the journey over the sea
would normally involve whale watching and spotting dolphins. The trip on the
ferry was quick, just half an hour and we had arrived on the largest sand
island in the world. It was from this moment the day got better as the fog
started to lift and the sun started shining through the trees.
Our first stop was Lake McKenzie we travelled through thick
rainforest to get there on roads (sand tracks) that even 4x4 cars were
struggling with. It seemed like we had travelled to the middle of nowhere when
this huge lake which covered 150 hectares appeared from between the trees. We were
blown away, it was the clearest water we had ever seen, it looked a beautiful
blue which was the reflection of the sky onto the white sand that lined the
lake. Jonny managed to dip his toes in and the water was freezing, there was a
couple of dare devils that went for a swim but they soon came out shivering.
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Jonny being brave at Lake McKenzie |
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Lake McKenzie |
We then had morning tea while listening to a person from the
indigenous tribe of Fraser Island, the tribe was known as the Butchulla People.
He explained about the islands history, his tribe and he performed a
traditional dance and song, it felt really special due to the environment that
we were in. What we learnt about the relationship between the indigenous people
and the European settlers was really disturbing. It is thought that the
Butchulla People lived on the land of Fraser Island for up to 15,000 years and
during those years when there was plenty of food supplies there was a
population of 2,000 people. When the European
settlers arrived they began using resources that the Butchulla People relied
upon, food cycles changed and supplies they needed to survive suffered and
disease spread as a result. Our guide told of one occasion when the Butchulla
People were very hungry, they became desperate for food and starting stealing
small amounts of flour so they could make bread. The European settlers soon
realised what was happening so they put poison in the flour which ended up
killing many of the the Butchulla People.
Many similar incidences and conflicts took place. Logging of the island
was introduced in 1863 which further affected the lifestyle of the Butchulla
People. Logging was stopped on the island in 1991 when the area was named a
World Heritage Site but by this time it was far too late for the tribes who had
already moved away.
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From the Butchulla tribe |
The next point on our tour started on the 75 mile beach. It
was amazing, we drove from a dense rainforest on to a beautiful beach. This
beach was unlike one we had ever visited before as it also acted as I highway
where cars travels at 80km an hour, It was also a runway for aircraft. We
whizzed along the beach admiring the view, looking out to sea trying to spot a
whale. Unfortunately it was not to be are day for seeing wildlife, the only
whale we saw was dead. The tour guide explained that this particular whale had
died the previous week when Bull Sharks chased it and it beached itself. There
was a large group of people who saw what had happened and tried to help save
the whale but their efforts were in vain as the Whale was just too large to be
moved.
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The beach highway |
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The beach highway which also worked as a runway |
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75 Mile Beach |
The next spot of interest for us was The Maheno ship wreck.
The ship has been beached since 1935. The Maheno was originally used on routes
from Sydney to Auckland, it was then used in World War One as a hospital ship
in Europe. After the war the Japanese brought the boat from the Australia to
melt down as scrap. They began towing it back to Japan when a storm hit and the
tow line snapped with the engines having previously been taken out there was no
way of rescuing the boat. It therefore drifted and beached itself on Fraser
Island where it remains today.
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The Maheno |
Indian Heads was the place where we stopped for lunch but no
food was eaten before a hike up the cliffs to admire the fabulous view of the
bays and surrounding forests. After lunch we went to a part of the island they
have named Champagne Pools which are actually just very large rock pools. The
area was given its name a s someone decided the bubbling effect of the sea over
the rocks looked like Champagne being poured.
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View from Indian Heads |
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Standing on the beach bellow Indian Heads |
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Champagne Pools |
No trip to Fraser island would be complete without seeing a
Dingo and we stumbled across a small pack of 5/6 strolling along the beach. We
could not believe such friendly looking animals can be such vicious predators
and so dangerous for humans. They just looked completely harmless.
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One of a few Dingo's we met |
Our route home took us past a tree called Stinay, it is a
huge Syncarpia Hillii which is 215cm in diameter and is estimated to be at
least 500 years old. This particular tree was also known as the Spirit Tree. It
was given its nick-name as years ago when a young descendant from one the
indigenous tribes went on a tour of the island and took a photo of this tree.
When the photo was developed there was a huge figure the sizeof the tree
standing next to it. Since this photo there have been many other similar photos
taken showing spirits around the tree. This is something that did not surprise
me having heard of the troubled history of the island and knowing just how old
the tree was and what it could have seen there was a spiritual atmosphere.
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"The Spirit Tree" |
The whole day was quite magical, we managed to see and learn
so much. I am so pleased we went despite feeling so ill in the morning, it as
it is a trip that we will never forget.
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